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Safe Tomatoes: Well Worth the Search!

Thursday, July 3rd, 2008

It’s been a rough couple of months for tomato lovers as hundreds of people across the nation became infected with Salmonella serotype Saintpaul. Investigators suspected raw tomatoes from select areas in Florida and Mexico. The U. S. Food and Drug Administration warned consumers against eating raw red plum, red Roma, and round red tomatoes, as well as their freshly packaged products like salsa and pico de gallo.

I closely followed media reports and kept current with updates on the Center for Disease Control and Prevention and the FDA websites. Local markets did a stellar job removing suspected produce and posting signs that informed customers of safe choices.

Once I’d done my homework, I felt confident heading to the market in search of the scrumptious local tomatoes I adore. After all, it’s just not summer without them! I headed to the San Francisco ferry plaza farmers market for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions and fresh basil leaves—the main ingredients in panzanella bread salad. This rustic Tuscan dish requires perfectly ripe produce and best-quality bread such as French sourdough or an Italian country loaf. Don’t even consider supermarket sandwich bread because it will disintegrate and make your salad gushy.

I had a little trouble finding tomatoes, but finally located two vendors that proudly displayed several varieties  including my favorite heirlooms in a riotous palette of colors and sizes. Their lumpy-bumpy shapes always make me smile and their flavor never disappoints. And with such a rainbow of hues, I knew my salad would sparkle like jewels in the summer sun.

At home I added some capers and dressed the salad simply with salt, pepper, olive oil and wine vinegar. Delicious! The only way this could be better would be with just-picked vegetables from a home garden.

Panzanella
     
~6 slices  country style bread, torn in 1/2-inch chunks (makes about 4
cups) 
2 large  ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut in chunks
1/2 cup  extra virgin olive oil
10–12     fresh basil leaves
½ small  red onion, thinly sliced
1 small  cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced
1 small  orange pepper, sliced
1/2 small  yellow pepper, sliced
2 tablespoons capers, drained
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the bread, tomatoes, and ¼ cup of the olive oil in a spacious bowl, mix. Let sit for 10 minutes.

2. Tear the basil leaves and add them to the bread mixture.

3. Add the onion, cucumber, peppers, and capers; mix well.

4. Drizzle the remaining olive oil and the red wine vinegar over the salad. Season with the salt and pepper and mix to distribute.

5. Adjust the seasonings, oil, and vinegar to your taste.

6. Serve immediately.
 
Serves 4–6

Get a printable Panzanella salad recipe.

Homemade Guacamole—Pure Summer on a Chip!

Thursday, June 26th, 2008

The Aztecs got it right when they began preparing a wonderful fresh sauce made from mashed avocados, tomatoes and salt. Today, Mexican guacamole is a staple at many outdoor events and parties. The secret to success is perfectly ripe avocados. Accept nothing less or you’ll end up with a bowl of flavorless goop.

Over the years I’ve fine-tuned my recipe for maximum flavor, texture and color. There is nothing better on a blistering hot day, except maybe guacamole PLUS an icy cold beer. Sure you could rush down to the supermarket and grab a couple of tubs of expensive deli-made guacamole oreven worsethat artificial packaged green slime filled with preservatives, colors, fillers and hydrogenated oils. But why? Try this and you’ll never go back to store-bought.

I find that the rich and creamy Hass avocados, which are available year round, make the best guacamole. Choose ones with black, roughly-textured skins that yield to gentle pressure. Avoid avocados that are rock hard, bruised, or overripe with loose skins.

Cutting avocados for guacamole is easy if you follow these steps:

1. Hold the avocado in your hand stem side up. Insert a sharp knife in to the top and cut downward to the pit.

2. Move the knife lengthwise around the avocado using the pit as your guide.

3. Separate the avocado by gently twisting the two halves apart.

4. Hold the half with the pit in your hand and give the pit a good whack with the sharp blade of your knife.

5. Twist the knife slightly and lift the pit from the avocado.

6.  Carefully remove the slippery pit from your knife using a paper towel.

7. Scoop out the flesh by running a spoon around the edge of the avocado.

Guacamole

4      ripe Hass avocados
3      tablespoons fresh lime juice
2      ripe tomatoes
3      tablespoons minced scallions
1–2  serrano chiles, minced
½     cup  chopped cilantro
¼     teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½     teaspoon salt
1       bag  corn or tortilla chips

Directions:
1. Cut the avocados in half; remove the pits, scoop out the flesh, and place it in a medium bowl.

2. Mash the avocados with a fork until they reach a chunky-creamy consistency.

3. Add the lime juice and mix.

4. Cut the tomatoes in half, discard the pulp and seeds, and chop the flesh.

5. Add the scallions, chiles, half of the tomatoes, half of the cilantro, salt and pepper to the avocados. Mix thoroughly.

6. Taste the guacamole and adjust the seasonings.

7. Spoon into a serving bowl and decorate with the remaining tomato and cilantro.*

8. Serve with chips.

* If you choose to refrigerate the guacamole before serving, place plastic wrap directly on top of it to slow the browning.

Yield: 2 ½ cups

Get a printable copy of the Beyond Wonderful Guacamole recipe and an illustrated, step-by-step guide on How To Peel, Pit, and Scoop Avocados.

Carefree in the Breeze
Picnic Season is Here!

Monday, June 16th, 2008

I love picnics! Whether it’s a solo morning hike in the fog-shrouded hills with a thermos of coffee and muffins, or more elaborate fare shared with family and friends, I’m always game. So when the kids wanted to take our seventeen-year-old houseguest, Mahi Titus, kite flying on the shores below the Golden Gate Bridge, I sprang into action.

Mahi is from New Delhi, India and had come to spend a few days with us before heading to the Global Young Leaders Conference in Washington DC and a United Nations event in New York City. We’d done a whirlwind tour of Chinatown, Fisherman’s Wharf, North Beach, and snaked her down Lombard “the crookest street in the world”. Our kite-flying destination offered a breathtaking view and the perfect winds to get our dragon kites airborne.

My three rules of picnicking are easy, easy and easy. So lunch was lots of sliced cold cuts, cheeses, pickles, black olives, munchies and cold drinks. For dessert, I packed up a platter of freshly baked chocolate Guinness cupcakes that I’d just finished testing for the website that morning. We also had a large, crab-shaped sourdough bread from Fisherman’s Wharf, whose claws would make fun sandwiches.

As the kids worked together on the kites, I set a big checked tablecloth with bright plastic plates and piled on the food. I couldn’t resist licking a bit of chocolate-cinnamon buttercream off my fingers as I arranged the cupcakes. One taste settled it—the kids could have the meats and cheeses; my lunch would be several of these decadent treats!

The kites provided plenty of drama—particularly for little Sammy, who wailed in distress as the green dragon crashed on the rocks. Fortunately, his sunny mood was easily restored by a huge supply of black olives. He fitted an olive on each tiny finger and cried out happily, “look, I’m an alien!” As the olives disappeared into his mouth, we all agreed that he looked more like a chipmunk.

As I savored my second (alright, third) cupcake, I reflected on the incredible power of simple food in a beautiful outdoor setting, shared with people I love. It’s what summer is all about.

Secrets of Squid
Frying Calamari at Fior d’Italia

Monday, June 9th, 2008

Meet Executive Chef Gianni Audieri, partner and guiding spirit at American’s oldest Italian restaurant, the Fior d’ Italia in San Francisco. Gianni has joined the Beyond Wonderful panel of culinary experts as our esteemed guest chef. He’ll be sharing his extensive knowledge and classic Italian recipes adapted for home cooks in the months to come. 

Gianni began his culinary career in Milan, Italy at age 14 and studied French cooking in Switzerland. Over the decades, he polished his craft at hotels, private clubs and on cruise ships before settling at the Fior in the early 1980s.  

One of the thrills of working with Gianni is, of course, eating his fabulous food. I’ve enjoyed his rich soups, seasonal salads, plates of pasta, beautifully prepared meats and his famous tiramisu mousse dessert. With so many memorable dishes, it was hard to decide which recipe to share first at Beyond Wonderful—until I tasted the calamari. It’s the best I’ve ever had; tender, incredibly meaty and delicious. When I asked Gianni his secret, he laughed and said, “everyone wants to know my secret ingredient but there isn’t one. It’s fresh calamari dredged in flour.” Gianni pointed out that he uses Atlantic calamari, since it tends to be meatier than the Pacific variety. He also cuts the tubes—known as “mantles” —in strips, rather than the more common ring shape.  

As we talked, I realized that those passionate about calamari usually order it at restaurants but are hesitant to try making it at home. Fear no more! I’ve discovered that delicious fried calamari is simple and easy to make when you know what you’re doing. 

Gianni took me to his kitchen, gathered some fresh, pre-cleaned calamari mantles and tentacles, rinsed them under cold water and placed them in a strainer to remove the excess moisture. Working quickly, he cut the tips off the mantles, made a vertical slit down the side and opened it flat. “Now, I cut them in ½-inch strips and pat dry with a paper towel.” Within seconds all the mantles were prepped for the next step. 

We moved down the line where he produced a shallow pan of flour, dropped in the calamari and gave it a couple of quick tosses upward. As everything went airborne, he said, “be sure to shake it well to remove all the excess flour.” I was impressed. How did he get everything breaded and returned to the tray without dropping anything on the floor? This was definitely a skill that I wanted to master.  

We moved to the deep fryer that contained preheated vegetable oil. “Barbara, most cooks fry this at 350 degrees, but I do it at 375 because the temperature drops the minute you add the cold calamari. Cook it 2–3 minutes until it’s the palest golden color. Don’t overcook the calamari or it will get tough.” 

Instinctively, Gianni pulled the basked out of the fryer at the perfect moment and gave it couple of good shakes to remove the excess oil. He put it in a spacious bowl and salted it, then tossed the finished calamari into a lined wire basket. A sliced lemon and a couple of dipping sauces completed the dish, although Gianni pointed out that “the sauces are an American thing” —the true Italian presentation uses only lemon. 

I eagerly dove in and asked Gianni where the home cook could find Atlantic calamari outside of the East coast. After all, he has clout with his daily 100-pound orders for the restaurant, while the rest of us just need a small amount. “Talk to a good fish monger and see what he can get,” he advised. “You won’t find this at supermarkets—not even most high-end markets. If you can’t find it, the Pacific variety is okay.”  

Gianni and I will be cooking together in the coming months and I’ll have more of his wonderful Italian recipes adapted for your home kitchen. Each will have a printable recipe and illustrated, step-by-step How To for easy reference. 

Today, check out the Calamari recipe and How To Make Calamari. 

Summer on a Stick
Farm-Fresh Strawberry Popsicles

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008

Strawberries are in season so Jackson and I headed to the local berry farm to pick enough for shortcake and a good stash of popsicles. This three-year-old loves strawberries and has already helped plant a large pot of them in the backyard. He’s also been known to sneak warm, sun-ripened berries from his school garden during playtime. (If he’s not actually caught in the act, the juice dripping down his chin is a dead giveaway.)

Armed with small white baskets, we got down on the ground amid rows of fruit-laden plants that seemed to go on forever. I lifted up the leaves and exposed the red treasures that Jackson sought. We talked about the small white flowers and how they become baby berries that grow in to the big juicy ones that he loves. Along the way he explored the insect population and found a pill bug. “Here, you hold him while I eat.” The kid is lucky that I’m not squeamish. With our full baskets plus an extra pre-picked flat, we were ready to head home and tackle our projects.

The strawberries filled the kitchen with an intoxicating fragrance that screamed summer. I prepped the berries and started the macerating process with sugar and water. A few hours later, Jackson joined me for the fun part of making strawberry popsicles—squishing the fruit into tiny pieces. We giggled and had great fun reducing the berries to just the right consistency. Part of the joy of cooking with kids is watching them work. Jackson concentrated intently with his tongue hanging out of his mouth as he carefully filled each popsicle mold. The joy of accomplishment was all over his face—along with quite a bit of sticky red juice—once all the molds were filled.

The next morning Jackson woke up early and headed to the freezer for breakfast. This is the ultimate reward for a job well done. Our day was joyful and Jackson learned a bit about plants, harvesting berries and the satisfaction that comes from making your own food—especially this sweet treat.

Simple Stuffed Eggs of Summer

Friday, May 23rd, 2008

A recent trip to the local farmers market left me with a hankering for simple stuffed eggs made with the freshest eggs, homemade mayonnaise and a sprinkling of chopped, just-picked herbs like chives, tarragon and Italian parsley. Their clean eggy flavor and luxuriously creamy texture is unlike traditional “deviled eggs” made with supermarket eggs, bottled mayonnaise and spices that are often overwhelming.

Have you ever eaten a farm-fresh egg? If not, you’re in for a treat as they are very different from their supermarket counterparts. Crack one open and you’ll see that the yolks are much brighter and deeper in color. They range from brilliant yellow to orange and sometimes red—all determined by what the hens eat. The yolks are round, surrounded by cloudy whites that fit tightly in the shell with minimum aira sign of freshness. And the flavor is extraordinary; clean, rich and perfectly wholesome. In other words, just what you’d expect from happy chickens that feast on bugs, an occasional snail and good things from the earth.

Unlike mass-produced eggs, farm eggs are typically collected daily and sold very quickly. Supermarket eggs are harvested from hens pumped up with antibiotics and crammed in cages at large production facilities. They are often held in cold storage for weeks before shipping out to the markets for sale. (The U.S. Department of Agriculture allows a full 30 days between when grocery eggs are packed and their last date of sale.)  Mass-produced eggs do not have the same taste as farm eggs; their yolks are flatter and the whites are runny and translucent.

Back in the kitchen, it’s time to hard-cook my eggs so that they are creamy and not overdone with evil green halos around their yolks. It’s easy! Just place the eggs in a saucepan and add enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Turn on the heat and bring the water to a boil. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit for 11–12 minutes. Drain the eggs and plunge them into ice water to stop the cooking process. Peel them when cooled.

Stuffing the eggs is quick and easy—and the mayonnaise can be made in under a minute.

Ingredients:
18 medium farm eggs, hard-cooked, peeled and halved
5–6 tablespoons homemade mayonnaise
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon salt
~   chopped fresh herbs such as Italian parsley, tarragon, or chervil (optional)

Instructions:
1. Scoop the yolks from the halved eggs and place the yolks in a food processor or electric mixer.

2. Add 5–6 tablespoons of homemade mayonnaise and the salt and pepper. Process until smooth.

3. Spoon or pipe the filling in to the halved eggs.

4. Sprinkle with herbs, if desired.

5. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until ready to serve.

Print the Simple Stuffed Eggs recipe and an illustrated,
step-by-step How To Hard Cook Eggs for easy reference.

Mario Batali

Thursday, May 8th, 2008

In a world filled with superstars, Mario Batali shines bright. He’s the real deal; top chef, television star, restaurateur and author. Best of all, he’s human; always warm and engaging with his fans. Mario was in town this week promoting his latest cookbook, Italian Grill. I joined 220 self-proclaimed “foodies” and fans at the Book Passage Cooks with Books luncheon at the Il Fornaio restaurant in San Francisco. Many had taken the day off to see their star up close and personal.

Excited guests got their first glimpse of Mario as he signed books in a small private dining area. There is always a bit of nervous anticipation as one approaches a celebrity chef, but Mario set everyone at ease, chatting animatedly and posing for photos. It seemed like everyone brought a camera to record their moment. One lady giggled when she saw that he was dressed in his trademark orange croc shoes, shorts, button-down shirt and zippered vest. “He’s so cool! I just love him.”

With signed books in hand, we headed to our assigned tables and I noticed that the entire wait staff was wearing bright orange crocs with their black and white uniforms—arranged for by Mario and the CWB team. I felt lucky to be a part of the fun as an excited buzz filled the restaurant. This was turning in to a party!

Traditionally the Cooks with Books menu is taken entirely from the author’s cookbook and prepared by the restaurant. Because of Mario’s tight schedule (three signings and three restaurant stops on this day!) the Il Fornaio chefs prepared their own main course of grilled chicken breasts, as well as their own sinfully delicious chocolate mousse dessert.

Mario provided the stuzzichino course with a salumi assortment and charcuterie. The delicacies came compliments of Salumi Artisan Cured Meats, the Seattle-based store owned by his father. Our table dispensed with formalities, sampling the meats with our fingers. I enjoyed their diverse yet balanced flavors so much that I went online and ordered a selection for my family and friends. We also savored a delicious appetizer of grilled portabella mushroom with arugula and Parmesan Reggiano cheesea recipe from the Italian Grill cookbook.

Mario spoke to the crowd between courses and took numerous questions from the lively group. Fans wanted to know the behind-the-scenes details of his wildly successful Food Network shows, Molto Mario and Iron Chef America. Someone asked if he hung out with any other celebrity chefs, and we learned that Anthony Bourdain is a good friend.

Questions came rapid-fire, with topics bouncing back and forth between juicy tidbits and practical tips. I learned that San Francisco chef Jeremiah Towers of Stars fame is a constant inspiration to Mario when creating and running his many restaurants. One person yelled out “hey, Mario, how do I cook restaurant-style pasta at home?” Mario told him “remove the pasta from its cooking water a minute-and-a half early and finish it in the cooking sauce.” Who knew? We were all having the time of our lives.

It’s not difficult to see why Mario Batali is a success. Not only is he talented, intelligent and hard-working, but he is also passionate about life and his work. Above all, he displays a warmth and generous spirit that inspires both colleagues and fans.

A friend of mine attended his last book signing of the day at the Book Passage flagship store in Marin. After his long, grueling day, she described Mario as “energetic, real, and generous,” with plenty of time and energy to answer her questions about favorite local restaurants. He’d recommended Pico’s, so naturally she and her friend headed there for dinner, only to find Batali dining with friends on the patio. They sent him a glass of wine, thrilled, as I am, to have shared a moment with him. 

Charmoon Richardson, Mushroom Master

Saturday, May 3rd, 2008

Mushrooms were never on our family table when I grew up. My mother didn’t understand them and fretted that we might ingest poison fungi and “drop like a dying elephant.” How, she reasoned, would we know what was safe—and could merchants be trusted to know what they were selling?

It wasn’t until I grew up and moved away that I sampled my first supermarket white button mushrooms. It was instant love and I put them in everything: soups, stews, on meats, and in sandwiches and salads. Friends thought that my cooking was exotic and “gourmet” and came back for second helpings. Portabellas and baby browns soon followed.

And then, decades later, came Charmoon. Life in my kitchen will never be the same. Charmoon Richardson joined our Beyond Wonderful team of culinary experts last fall writing about golden chanterelles and black trumpets. A mushroom master, Charmoon has spent the last 30 years collecting and studying wild mushrooms in northern California and writing about his foraging and cooking adventures. I was instantly inspired and set-out in search of these treasures, becoming an urban forager. I found that many upscale supermarkets and specialty grocery stores sold the golden chanterelles and black trumpets for premium prices, but they often appeared tired and were broken in to glandular looking pieces. A bit of research located the West Fungi store in San Francisco. This small, family-run shop has a knowledgeable staff that always helps me select the freshest mushrooms at prices equal to or lower than supermarkets.

Morel mushrooms star in Charmoon’s column this month. They are a bit of heaven on earth and their amazing depth of flavor must be experienced first-hand. In addition to wonderful stories and information, Charmoon teaches you how to clean and cook morels, and then presents three easy recipes that are packed with flavor.

This week in the kitchen, I prepared his recipes for our photo shoot. I brushed away all of the grit and grime and started cooking. My personal favorite was the Morel Mushrooms Stuffed with Crab and Gruyere. This sounds complicated but it came together quickly. I bought cooked Dungeness crab meat from my fish monger, tossed it in a bowl and mixed in the gruyere cheese, bread crumbs and a sprinkling of salt. My one recommendation here is that you buy medium to large morels, as the small ones will be impossible to fill. Once stuffed the morels are dipped in pungent garlic butter, then grilled over wood smoke until crisp. All of mine burst open exposing their succulent crab filling—but this only heightened their appeal.

Photographer Windsor Andersen styled all of the dishes, then speared one of the crab-stuffed mushrooms with a fork for the last shot. As soon as she finished, the crispy morsel disappeared in to her mouth and she uttered “Sooo good! I’ve never tasted anything like this.” The rest of the team circled like hungry dogs and instantly consumed everything in sight.
 
Having conquered the urban landscape, I’m feeling ready to strap on my hiking boots and join Charmoon for one of his organized foraging trips in to the wilds. Knowledge and experience is power, so I’m confident there won’t be any “dropping elephants” any time soon. Stay tuned for details!
   

Get a printable Morel Mushrooms Stuffed with Crab and Gruyere Cheese recipe.

Read more about Charmoon Richardson.

Contact Charmoon Richardson for guided mushroom hunts, classes on mushroom identification, cooking and cultivation. Learn more at his Wild About Mushrooms company website, or call 707-829-2063.

James Peterson

Saturday, April 26th, 2008

Some adventurous souls are born chefs; a few are also gifted with the ability to teach and inspire others in the kitchen. Earlier this week James Peterson, the award-winning cookbook author, chef and master teacher of culinary arts came to town. He was here promoting Cooking, his 12th book. I caught up with him at the Book Passage Cooks with Books dinner at the popular Left Bank restaurant.

Peterson arrived early and mingled with the gathering guests. Windsor Andersen and I were sipping our wine when he noticed that I’d brought Sauces, one of his earlier works, for signing. As we chatted he did the honors. A number of his family members and good friends arrived and greeted him warmly. We learned that he grew up nearby before settling in New York.

Guests lined up to get their copies of Cooking signed, then enjoyed a dinner prepared from recipes in the book. All of these events have their own personalities, and this one felt almost like a big family gathering with Peterson moving about the room talking with guests, answering questions and relating stories from his travels and work.

When the appetizers arrived, Peterson told me that the cool, fresh oysters on the half shell with warm saffron hollandaise sauce are one of his personal favorites. I agreed they were sensational—and that says a lot coming from someone who has avoided these little critters for most of my life. I had my first oyster only last year at the Drakes Bay Oyster Company, and consider myself a bit of a novice in their preparation. But after tasting Peterson’s wonderful dish and reviewing the recipe and excellent step-by-step illustrations in his book, I’m inspired to try making a batch at home.   

I knew that Peterson began as a self-taught cook, then built his skills at the Cordon Bleu in Paris and in the kitchens of French restaurants. I was curious when and how he began cooking. He laughed and said he was ten years old and convinced a favorite aunt to help him make crepes suzette. Ambitious from the start, he figured it would be easy. How hard could it be to fry the thin pancakes and make a sauce that required one to rub oranges with sugar cubes to extract the essence of the zest? They had a few problems on that first effort, but Peterson was hooked. Today, crepes suzette is included in Cooking for all to make with confidence and success.

The meal continued to celebrate the season with a wonderful artichoke and toasted walnut salad and a beautifully flavored spring lamb stew. Dessert was three decadent cream puffs with a dark chocolate sauce. Windsor told Peterson that this was the best dessert she’d ever had at Cooks with Books, and he let her know that the sauce was a last-minute addition. He just thought it was a better treat than powdered sugar. Wiping a bit of sauce from her chin, Windsor had to agree.

Get a printable copy of James Peterson’s Spring Lamb Stew.

Artichoke Fields Forever

Tuesday, April 22nd, 2008

Cruising the I-5 on a warm spring day while dancing in my seat to the cool sounds of the Buena Vista Social Club… could life get any sweeter? My recent road trip down the California coast to Los Angeles and back home via the Central Valley was a welcome break and a chance to visit the farms and vineyards that provide so much of our food and wine. And let’s face it, road trips are a great excuse for serious eating at funky diners and tempting roadside farm stands.

The great Castroville artichoke fields loomed on the horizon where the Salinas Valley intersects with the Monterey Peninsula. This is Steinbeck country, where the author set many of his classic novels. Its cool, fog-kissed landscape makes this the artichoke capitol of the world. I spotted the Pezzini farm and roadside store and pulled in. Surrounded by fields of tall, lush plants with thousands of globes pointing skyward, I explored a bit and worked up an appetite for their famous fried artichokes.

Inside, a delightful lady prepared my order and told me that freshly harvested artichokes have a sweeter, more intense flavor than the older ones sold in supermarket, which can become slightly bitter. I learned that the popular baby artichokes are fully mature and grow at the bottom of the plants. Unlike the large globes, they don’t have inedible fuzzy centers.

As she worked, I asked how they made their dipping sauce. “It’s homemade ranch dressing created for the ‘universal’ palate,” she explained. “Personally, I like it spicier with grated parmesan cheese. That’s the best.”

I took my piping hot morsels to the field, sat down and dug in. The coating was a bit “bready,” but smooth. She was right about the fresh artichokes—they had a clear, intense flavor that was pure pleasure. The dipping sauce was OK but nothing memorable. I contemplated how I might improve on the dish. The batter should be light and crisp, with a full-flavored sauce that makes the artichokes shine. I finished up and bought a large bag of baby artichokes and some large globes.

Back home in my kitchen, I created a simple beer batter spiced with onion, garlic and chili powders and a little salt and pepper. Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) supplied the perfect crunch while keeping the batter light.

Homemade ranch dressing is more subtle than its bottled and packaged brothers, but it creates a cool first taste that prepares the palate for the initial crunch and final burst of delicious artichoke flavor. I tested the recipes on family and friends over the weekend. Amid stories from the road trip, they gobbled plates of fried artichokes and deemed them beyond wonderful.

Of all the food eaten on the road trip, this was the most memorable—forever tied to Castroville and the amazing artichoke fields that feed people around the world.

Get a printable Fried Artichokes with Home Made Ranch Dressing recipe