Today, my very pregnant friend, Shefali Manilal sits at my kitchen table coring, peeling and slicing apples for a baked fruit crumble. It’s a homey, old-fashioned scene; except that Shefali’s happy face appears in the square frame of my computer. We often talk laptop to laptop—Paris to Sausalito via SKYPE video calls while we cook. Shefali feels so close that I want to reach out and touch her—or start prepping the fruit myself.

Shefali and I both love crumbles and serve them year-round using just-harvested fruit and berries that celebrate the seasons. Often there is no specific recipe: it’s what’s on hand—or the cook’s whim. While cobblers are super simple by nature, I sometimes fancy-up the flavors with a shot of fruit brandy like pear or Calvados (French apple).

Family and friends at both our Paris and Sausalito tables go absolutely nuts for the crumble topping made from a mixture of flour, sugar, butter and spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Every now and then we vary it with crushed cookies, oats, chopped nuts, even fresh bread crumbs. My family fights for every last spicy crumb, so I make sure to cover the entire fruit surface with topping. Shefali indulges her group by lining the baking dish with the crumbly mixture, then layering the fruit and finishing it all off with a decadent second layer of topping.

One of the best things about baking a crumble is the amazing warm, spicy fragrance that fills the kitchen. As we continue our on-screen chat, Shefali keeps one eye on the oven and can’t resist taunting me: “Barbara, it smells very good. Want some?” Wicked girl!

Shefali and I differ on what to serve with fruit crumbles. Personally I love a scoop of best-quality vanilla ice cream slowly melting over the warm dessert, but Shefali prefers a generous dollop of velvety smooth
English clotted cream. “It’s not as sweet as whipped cream and does not melt like ice cream”, she explains. I agree to buy a bottle of the cream at the local market and try it on my next crumble.

With perfect timing, Antoine arrives home with a kiss for Shefali and a sweet pat for his baby. While they say their hellos, I sign-off and go freezer-diving for my stash of Hagen Daz ice cream. With spoon in hand, I dig-in and realize that the only negative to our electronic visit is not being able to eat the oven-fresh crumble in Paris with my friends. But hey, the ice cream’s not so bad all on its own. Want some? 

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Print out our illustrated step-by-step
How To Core and Peel Apples for easy reference.

Roasted pumpkin seeds are crisp bursts of flavor, and one of my favorite autumn snacks. And if our Beyond Wonderful photographer does not get here soon, you won’t know what they look like because I can’t stop eating them.

Until recently, I could take or leave pumpkin seeds. Some of my batches were too salty while others were unevenly roasted (meaning lots of chewy, spitable stuff). That changed on my recent trip to Dan Avakian’s produce market, where I stocked up on roasting pumpkins. I told Dad about my mediocre seeds and asked what I should do. Incredibly, he revealed a method that not only yields consistently scrumptious seeds, but also requires only half an hour in the oven. I told Dan that I was skeptical about this quick method—several of my friends slow-roast their seeds in a 200-degree oven for hours. Dan said, “That’s way too long for me. I’m too impatient. This works.” Armed with my new knowledge, I headed home and got to work.

There is no set recipe for roasted pumpkin seeds since your amounts will differ each time you make them. But follow these simple instructions and you’ll master the process quickly.

You’ll also be happy to know that the photographer just arrived and she is artfully styling the one cup of remaining seeds. Wait! She’s eating them. Stop!

How To Roast Pumpkin Seeds

Here’s the ultimate trick for one of October’s greatest treats:

1. Place the seeds in a zip-top bag and sprinkle with salt. (No need to worry about cleaning them first— any clinging pulp will get rinsed away later.) Seal the bag and squish to distribute the salt. Store in the refrigerator for 3 days.

2. Remove the seeds from the bag and place them in a colander. Run cool water over them, using your hands to remove any bits of pumpkin.

3. Place the seeds on a pizza pan with holes, or a baking sheet.

1. 4. Pat the seeds dry with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel.

1. 5. Toss them lightly with melted butter or olive oil.

1. 6. Sprinkle the seeds with your favorite herbs and spices. Do not add salt at this point, or the seeds could become inedible.
   Toss the seeds to coat evenly.

7.  Place the seasoned seeds in a preheated 325-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Check the seeds halfway through the process to prevent burning.

Remove the pumpkin seeds from the oven and let them cool for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Cool completely, then store in an airtight container.

 
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Print out our illustrated step-by-step How To Roast Pumpkin Seeds for easy reference.

Lustily devouring a ripe pear as fragrant juice runs down my chin brings on deep, pleasurable moans. Spooning warm chocolate sauce over a perfectly poached pear makes me positively giddy with anticipation. So why do so many home cooks sigh and turn away from these beautifully versatile autumn treasures in the markets?

It’s because all the pears are rock hard. But wait! Hard pears are not the rejects you might think. While summer stone fruits are best picked fully ripe and eaten soft and tender, pears should be picked before their prime (when hard), then allowed to soften just slightly on your counter at home. In fact, a soft, yielding pear on the grocery store shelf is already overripe and will likely disappoint with a mealy, grainy texture.

“How then” you ask, “does one know how to select a good pear?” Off to the market and grab a one. Place your fingers on its neck and apply gentle pressure; the pear should be quite firm. Now, check the bulbous area for equal firmness.

Congratulations, you’ve found a good pear. But now what? The fruit is still hard and inedible. Pears are easily ripened at home on your kitchen counter or in a fruit bowl for several days. They’re ready to eat when they yield just a bit to gentle pressure. Don’t wait for the fruit to truly soften or change color, or you risk it becoming overripe and mushy. Trust your instincts and take a bite. Perfection!

Store pears in the refrigerator to extend their shelf life—ripe fruit will last 3 to 5 days.

There is one more major thing you should know about pears before heading to your kitchen. Not all varieties can be heated—that is, poached, baked, grilled and sautéed. The firmer varieties such as sweet and juicy Anjou, Bosc and Concorde hold their shapes well even when cooked. Bartletts (red and yellow), Comice and Starkrimson are best saved for eating fresh.

Take a look at some of these recipes, then head to the market and select your fruit with confidence.

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Print these recipes and illustrated, step-by-step how to cooking techniques for your convenience.

Butter Lettuce with Pears, Spiced Pecans, and Blue Cheese

Frangipane Tart

Poires Bell Helene (Poached Pears with Chocolate Sauce and
Crème Chantilly)

Pear Clafouti

How To Split and Scrape a Vanilla Bean

How To Poach Pears

Today, a simple basket of gray-green Romano beans caught my eye at the farmers market and made me smile. Memories. Mama Rita Ferro, an amazing Italian home chef, introduced me to them several years ago when she taught me how to make her Torta di rizo con fagioli (rice and green bean torta) and patate fagioli (green beans and potatoes with pesto).

Always innovative and frugal, Mama Rita believes in using every scrap of food to create tasty and nutritious meals for her family. Stale bread becomes fresh breadcrumbs. Leftover rice or potatoes, combined with Romano beans and a few simple ingredients, becomes culinary magic. You’ll never hear, “leftovers again?” at her table.

Mama Rita demands the best-tasting ingredients for all her dishes. She gave me a few pointers for selecting these flat, stingless beans that are so plentiful and economical in the early fall. Measuring five to seven inches in length, Romanos are local fare for me, grown at nearby farms in Brentwood and Fremont, California. Always select beans with good color and texture that snap in half when broken. Reject those that are dull or have brown spots—especially at the ends. Avoid overly mature beans that show bulges on the inside, as they are tough and flavorless.

Now, let’s get cooking.

Torta di Rizo Con Fagioli (rice and green bean torta).
Mama Rita told me that I’d love this budget-friendly torta, but who knew it would become one of my family’s favorite meals. Leftovers? They never suspect—and I’ll never tell. This dish is sensational hot for dinner, warm for lunch or cold straight out of the refrigerator at midnight.

Patate Fagioli (green beans and potatoes with pesto)
Day-old steamed or boiled potatoes can be the most boring thing on the planet… unless you combine them with Romano beans and dress everything with pesto and olive oil. Top with a generous sprinkling of parmesan cheese and green onions and voila—a dish worthy of center stage at your table. Mama Rita often varies this with whatever she has on hand: halved cherry tomatoes thinly slice onions, even a can of drained Italian albacore tuna.

Both of these favorites are truly delicioso—and the very essence of creative, frugal cooking. Of course, Mama Rita’s secret ingredient in all that she cooks is love. No wonder she can make magic from leftover potatoes.

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Print the recipes and how to’s for your convenience.

How To Make Torta de Rizo Con Fagioli (Rice and Green Bean Torta)

How To Make Patate Fagioli (Italian Green Beans and Potatoes with Pesto)

Read more about Mama Rita Ferro

Have you noticed all of the fruit-laden blackberry brambles growing wild along the local trails and roadsides? Grab your buckets; it’s time to start picking. Juicy pies and cobblers a la mode are scrumptious this time of year, but nothing beats the simple pleasures of warm blackberry jam, generously spooned over golden yam biscuits.

These lightly spiced biscuits are easy to make, and the jam offers a great reason to gather the kids and head outdoors in search of plump, juicy berries. Little Sammy and I made a day of it, first baking the biscuits then loading up in his trusty red wagon for a bumpy ride to my favorite berry patch.

Dwarfed by the huge bushes, Sammy looked around a bit alarmed. “Do you know to get home? Are we lost? Reassured that I knew the way home, he relaxed and worked his small hands past the thorny brambles searching for ripe berries. “Hey how come mine are red and green and yours are black?” I giggled and explained that it took a tall person to reach the top branches where the sun ripens the berries first.

As Sammy and I munched our way along the trail, he bit into a half-red, half-black berry, screwed up his face and yelled, “yuk—it’s sour. Are all the red berries in the basket bad?” I explained that actually, those unripe berries would be helpful, supplying the pectin needed to thicken our jam.

Today we had just enough berries for a small batch of jam. There would be no sterilizing of jars and lids, wrestling with bushels of fruit and rushing off to the market for commercial pectin. No, today we chose an old-fashioned recipe: one cup of fruit to one cup of sugar plus freshly squeezed lemon juice. Since ripe blackberries are low in pectin, we got ours from Sammy’s tart red berries, which contain more of this natural thickening agent.

Sammy helped me measure and slightly crush the berries to get the juices going. I took over at the stove and within 15 minutes we had the most fragrant, mouthwatering blackberry jam that couldn’t cool fast enough for either of us.

When the jam finally cooled, we found a cozy corner dug in. “This is awesome!” he said. “We make good things together, huh.” I had to agree, and knew that the only thing sweeter than fresh blackberry jam would be the memory of sharing it with Sammy.

Get printable copies of Blackberry Jam and Yam Biscuits for your convenience. 

It smokes, it gurgles and bubbles, then spews orange marshmallow lava over a dark chocolate mountain of cake. The crowd goes wild!

I made my first Amazing Erupting Volcano Cake last year when Chef Catherine Christiansen sent the recipes for her monthly Beyond Wonderful baking column. At first glace they seemed complex, but with a bit of planning the cake was easy and came together quickly.

This cake is all about fun so don’t get hung up on perfection. Embrace all its lumps, bumps and crumbs—they add character and keep you sane.

First pick a theme, then let your imagination soar. I’ve made this cake with dinosaurs, super heroes and Star Wars characters. You’ll find everything you need at cake supply, party and toy stores; from small bottles of brilliant red, orange and turquoise food coloring to plastic trees, edible rocks and a variety of characters, candles and costumes for added party fun.

I bake the cakes and prepared the black chocolate and green buttercreams and the Kahlúa soaking syrup the day before assembly. Next day, I frost the cakes, made the sugar lava and lake and color the marshmallow lava. Assembly is a breeze and great fun.

Once the Amazing Volcano stands before me in all its glory, I just can’t wait to blow it up! When it’s time, everyone gathers and holds their breath as I fuel the cake with cubes of dry ice, hot water, and warm lava. Then it starts—a little smoke—a few bubbles—lots of hoots and hollers—and over the side it goes. “That is so cool! I want that cake for my birthday.” “WOW!” Soon the group joins in a rousing chorus of Happy Birthday with intermittent giggles as the volcano continues its spectacular show.

As the lava slows, everyone goes for the cake and just can’t believe how good it is. More than a few have a second piece, but my mind is always on the leftover chocolate frosting. No matter how delicious—and how spectacular—the cake, it’s hard to beat the thrill of pure buttercream, sneaked on the sly. Give me a spoon.

Get a printable copy of The Amazing Erupting Volcano Cake.

At Beyond Wonderful I’m always especially gratified to get emails from overseas readers with their culinary questions and kitchen adventures. So when Jeff from Jerusalem—a former Marin resident—asked for my help locating the huevos Mexicana recipe served at the local Shoreline Coffee Shop in Mill Valley, I had to smile at how small the world truly is.

Jeff was missing the old haunt and shared his memories and favorite dishes. He had no idea that I held the Holy Grail—the huevos Mexicana recipe was just a click away—and there was more, much more. I explained to Jeff that I was a long-time regular at the Shoreline, and had sought owner Santi Ojeda’s guidance when developing Beyond Wonderful’s Mexican food section. “This is amazing!” Jeff wrote. “I thought that the wonders of Shoreline Coffee Shop would be lost forever to me!”

As the emails flew, Jeff related his fondness for Santi’s salsa verde (green sauce). Made from tomatillos and serrano chiles, this cooked, deeply flavored sauce is a staple in Mexican kitchens; uncooked it’s a popular table salsa.

We talked a lot about chiles and how Jeff used them in his cooking. I learned that jalapeños are not available in Jerusalem, so Jeff planted them in his rooftop garden for an endless supply

This got me wondering how easy it was for Jeff to gather the required ingredients for authentic Mexican food so far away. He explained that black beans and pinto beans are readily available in the local markets, but tortilla flour must be brought in from the US. His family in Texas keeps him well stocked with dried pastille and chipotle chiles.

I discovered that Jeff’s love and knowledge of Mexican food grew out of years of happy eating in his grandmother’s southwestern kitchen. Today, he regularly prepares her signature flat enchiladas for his family and friends in Israel.

When last heard from, Jeff had mastered my huevos Mexicana and was preparing to tackle salsa roja (red sauce) and salsa poblanos (fire-roasted pasilla sauce). Jeff sent a number of photos of his family dishes, and one of himself with his young daughter. As I looked at this beautiful child of a stranger, I marveled once again at the power of food to bring human beings together.

Get a complete listing of all the Beyond Wonderful Mexican recipes and how-to cooking techniques. All are printable for your convenience.

Spur-of the-moment weekend meals are a great way to catch up with old friends before facing the chaos of the coming week. So when two of my favorites called from Sonoma, I invited them for dinner on their way home to the city. I wanted super simple food packed with the flavors of the season and ready to go when they arrived. That way, I could join in the fun rather than being stuck fussing with the food.

Let’s face it, kitchens are like ovens with the summer heat, so I headed outdoors to the garden and prepared my trusty grill. Rooting through the freezer, I found a large bag of shrimp from Trader Joe’s that was perfect for my spicy, marinated Mexican shrimp. I reached for some gorgeous fresh produce on hand from the farmer’s market and a few pantry items, and dinner was on its way.

The marinade and dipping sauce is ridiculously simple. Start with a few chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (from a can), add tomato juice and blitz in a blender. Done. The heat is controlled by the ratio of chiles to juice. While I prefer two or three chiles, go ahead and blow out your eyeballs with the entire can if you want. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

The sauce is intensely flavored so I pair the shrimp with an equally flavorful black bean and sweet corn salad with roasted peppers, tomatoes, onions, chiles and cilantro. A simple lime dressing provides plenty of zest. Temper it all with a pot of Basmati rice with colorful shards of orange carrot.

When my friends arrived at sunset, I guided them to the garden where the sizzling grill and crickets competed for attention. Soon the air was filled with happy conversation, laughter and the smacking sounds of lusty eaters. I slipped away to organize dessert; chilled, sweet watermelon—simple summer goodness. I cut the melon into bite-sized pieces, spritzed them with fresh lime juice, and piled the brilliant pink cubes into pretty, pretty long-stemmed glasses. A very cool ending to a perfect warm evening.

How to Buy, Store, and Clean Shrimp
Shrimp is extremely perishable and typically frozen at sea before fishermen transport their catches to the mainland. Local markets sell both frozen and thawed by size and number per pound. Commercial names may vary slightly, but the numbers are fairly standard.

Extra or super colossal 10 per pound
Colossal 12
Colossal 15
Extra jumbo 16–20
Jumbo 21–25
Extra large 26–30
Large 31–35
Medium large 36–40
Medium 41–50
Small 51–60
Extra small 61–70

Unless you’re buying it frozen, purchase shrimp on the day you plan to cook.

Storing and Thawing Shrimp
Keep frozen shrimp in the freezer until you’re ready to use it. To thaw, place the shrimp in a colander and run cold water over them just until no longer frozen. Never let them soak in water, or you’ll lose significant flavor. For safety and quality, never defrost the shrimp at room temperature or in a microwave.

If you purchased thawed shrimp at the market, place them in a bowl set over a larger bowl filled with ice before refrigerating. (Most refrigerators are not cold enough on their own to keep shrimp in peak condition.) Store for 24 hours or less.

Cleaning Shrimp
Larger shrimp have dark black “veins” (actually the shrimp’s digestive tract) on their backs that should be removed. The veins are gritty, and can ruin the eating experience with a dirty taste. Deveining is easy but time consuming. If you’re in a hurry, consider purchasing pre-deveined shrimp from your fish monger. If you’re cleaning them yourself, here’s how:

1. If the shrimp still has its head on, grasp firmly and snap it off. Pull back the legs and shell to remove them.

2. Slip off the tail, if desired. (You may leave this on for certain recipes.)

3. Use a small, sharp knife to make a shallow cut along the back edge of the shrimp, exposing the dark “vein.”

4. Scrape out the vein with the tip of your knife. This is most easily accomplished while holding the shrimp under fast-running water.

5. Pat the shrimp dry and proceed with your recipe or store as directed above.

Print out my recipes for your convenience.

Camarones a la Diabla

Sweet Corn and Black Bean Salad

Basmati Rice

Soaring summer temperatures always send the kids outdoors to cool off in the sprinkler. Add a spirited squirt gun battle and they are soon tuckered-out and ready for one of my delicious, homemade popsicles. These sweet treats are easy to make and often tastier and more economical than store-bought.

I first made popsicles as a young mother on a budget years ago, creating recipes that now delight the next generation. While economy and taste are important, I also wanted something healthier that would eliminate processed corn syrup, palm oil and other additives. Fresh, pure ingredients like ripe seasonal fruits, fresh juices, milk and good chocolate took center stage.. As the kids grew older they joined me in the kitchen and delighted in making their own treats. It was also a good time to teach them things like math in action, patience, and pride in a job well done.

In the beginning, we molded the popsicles in small paper drinking cups, covered them with aluminum foil and inserted a wooden popsicle or lollypop stick. Today, I have a large collection of plastic molds with colorful sticks and lids. You’ll often find them at large department stores, kitchen shops, and in some supermarkets. Buy extras because someone inevitably tosses one of the sticks in the garbage when you’re not looking.

Here are a few of my recipes that have become the stuff of sweet summer memories.

Fudgesicles—This is the family favorite—and much tastier than the original in a box. Recently, I didn’t have time to make a batch and had to buy some. Little Sammy took a bite, then handed it back to me saying, “No thank you, could I please have one of yours?” Score! The kid had good manners and great taste.

Chocolate Mocha Popsicles—Chocolate. These icy treats are rich, dark and creamy and the perfect treat for mommies watching the kids have fun in the sprinkler. I always make a double—well maybe a triple batch so there are enough to share with others. I’ve been known to hide them deep in the freezer.

Fresh Fruit Popsicles—Ripe, fragrant fruits like juicy red strawberries and golden peaches make great popsicles. They are packed with flavor and nutritious. I have one hard rule here:save this for the peak of the season. If you use hard, unripe fruit, the results just aren’t worth the effort. Best to pick another recipe.

Soda Pop Popsicles—Super quick and easy. Just mix your favorite soda with good vanilla ice cream and fill your molds. While orange reminds me of creamsicles, the kids are fascinated with frozen root beer floats on a stick.

Print out copies of my recipes for your convenience.

Fudgesicles

Chocolate Mocha Popsicles

Strawberry Popsicles

Peach Popsicles

Soda Pop Popsicles