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Yolanda Resendiz and Barbara Adams collecting maguey (century cactus) leaves for their steamed barbacoa des res dish.

Barbara roasted the cactus leaves over an open flame until they softened and turned a dark green color.

Yolanda and her husband, Tomas sealed the large steamer pot so that the meat could slow-cook until fork tender.

A favorite at traditional Mexican parties, this slow-roasted meat picks up a rich, delectable flavor from the surrounding cactus leaves. It’s unlike anything you’ve tried, and well worth the effort if you’re feeling adventurous.
Hola! Welcome to Yolanda Resendiz’s home kitchen where we cook, style and photograph her classic Mexican recipes for Beyond Wonderful. Yolanda is a talented, self-taught home chef and her kitchen is filled with laughter, lively conversations and shared work. It is the very essence of the joyful sense of community that permeates kitchens across her native land.
Our photographers and I are veterans of Yolanda’s marathon, multi-dish cooking sessions and have become her dedicated prep assistants; peeling, chopping and preparing fresh produce and herbs, roasting and peeling chiles and marinating and roasting meats. At the same time we’ve taught Yolanda—an instinctive cook who does not use measuring cups or spoons—to precisely measure all her ingredients so we can write accurate recipes for your kitchen. This is a challenge when she’s moving quickly, juggling 10–12 recipes in various states of completion!
Since most of Yolanda’s more involved recipes include illustrated, step-by-step how-to pages, I assign one photographer to record each step of a recipe. Having the images also helps me back at the office when I’ve missed something in all the activity.
I’m currently working on recipe and how-to pages from our latest session that began early Saturday morning. We arrived and got settled at Yolanda’s long kitchen table piled high with all the ingredients needed for the day. As I went over the schedule with the group, Yolanda served a Mexican breakfast of scrambled eggs with cactus, beans, warm tortillas, and unlimited mugs of steaming hot coffee.
Fortified, we got our prepping assignments as Yolanda checked her bubbling pots on the stove. I find that there is always one dish that stands out from the rest—the one that I make in my own kitchen later. Today’s was barbacoa des res, or steamed beef shanks wrapped in roasted maguey (century cactus leaves). This popular Mexican dish is a party favorite and gets its rich flavor from the cactus—so don’t even think of trying to skip that element.
Maguey is not something that you pick up at the local supermarket or Mexican market. Instead, you have to find a plant nearby or substitute banana leaves that are readily available, and also yield fairly good results. Yolanda and I walked to a neighbor’s house to cut the leaves from a huge, ancient plant. She told me that all the neighbors share their garden bounties with each other. Today we took the cactus; tomorrow the neighbor would receive a bag of freshly picked apples.
Yolanda surveyed the plant, picked four, four-foot long leaves and cut them at the base with a sharp chef’s knife. I didn’t have a clue what to do with these gray-green giants, but when Yolanda handed them to me I quickly became aware that they had nasty looking prickles around the outer edges.
We hauled them back to Yolanda’s garden where her husband, Tomas, had set up two large camp stoves. This is not an exotic way to process these leaves, but simply a necessity because all of the burners on the inside stove were in use. Yolanda removed the prickles from the first leaf and started roasting it on the open flame. Soon the leaf softened and turned dark green. “Barbara, you want the leaves to bend so that we can wrap the meat in the steamer.” I was impressed. “All right, it’s your turn, you finish trimming and roasting the leaves and I’ll get the steamer ready.” Things moved quickly and brightened significantly when Tomas brought me an ice cold beer.
Yolanda arranged the roasted leaves in the steamer basket, added the beef shanks and covered them with the protruding ends of the cactus. Tomas helped Yolanda seal the steamer so that it could slow cook for five hours. I asked if one could use other cuts of meat and learned that lamb and pork are good choices, or cow’s head if you’re truly adventurous. “You get the best flavor from a cow’s head,” Yolanda assured me. “Just have the butcher at a Mexican or Latin market cut it into pieces and cook everything the same way.” She told me that in Mexico, they dig a big hole in the ground, add a heat source, lay in the roasted maguey and then slow cook the meat for hours. I thought that sounded very cool, and was told it got even better when you put a pan under the meat to catch the juices. “Barbara, it’s the best juice—so rich. It makes a great consommé.”
As the steamer pot did its work, we moved on to a slew of other delectables; roasted goat meat, caldillo soup, apple and pineapple salad, Mexican Kahlúa flan and pitchers of prickly pear juice known as agua de tuna (no relation to the fish).
Five hours later, we opened the steamer pot, peeled back the cactus leaves and inhaled the most wonderful scent. The meat was fork tender and amazingly good. I decided right there to make this at home—with the whole cow’s head. Life should always be an adventure, and there is a large maguey growing wild at the bottom of my hill.
Get a printable copy of barbacoa des res for easy reference.
Read more about Beyond Wonderful’s International Home Chef, Yolanda Resendiz and her classic Mexican recipes.

Homemade pumpkin puree makes the most extraordinary pancakes—but purchased puree certainly works fine, too. Scatter a few pecans on top if you’re feeling nutty.

Get the latest market news from Dan Avakian, our Beyond Wonderful produce expert. Dan writes an informative monthly column and publishes his Best of Season list that makes shopping a breeze.

Edible pumpkins come in orange, green and white. Ask your produce person to help and ask lots of questions.
Grab your hammers and cleavers, we’re roasting pumpkins for holiday pies, cakes and breads—and the most scrumptious pumpkin pancakes around. We just completed testing the pancakes and everyone here gave them rave reviews. I plan on showcasing the pumpkin pancakes at our special family holiday breakfasts and at the cabin on snowy mornings. They are that good.
So are you up for roasting pumpkins? “No, no, no, no”, you say. “That’s not for me.” As a novice cook, I felt the same way. Pumpkins came in a can from the supermarket for the express purpose of making pies once a year. Who knew that fresh pumpkins were easy to use—and suitable for so many dishes?
Then I met Dan Avakian, our Beyond Wonderful produce expert. Dan encouraged me to start roasting my own pumpkins and taught me how. It was painless and today, it’s so easy that I can roast and freeze a year’s supply in one afternoon.
Today, my kitchen counter is filled with edible pumpkins that I bought at Dan’s open-air produce market last Saturday. I stocked up on my favorite, orange Sugar Pie variety. Dan showed me other possibilities like the Green Fairytale, Cinderella, Australian Queensland Blue (aka Jarradale) and Lumina whites. With so many choices, I had lots of questions and felt lucky that someone as knowledgeable as Dan was there to answer them. It reminded me that you should always get to know your local produce people and fearlessly ask them anything on your mind. Not only will they guide you to your best options and values, but they’ll also suggest new ideas that will enhance your menus.
The one thing about roasting pumpkins that most people don’t know is that you cannot eat the decorative varieties grown for Halloween jack o’ lanterns. If you have some uncut ones left over, use them as autumn decorations.
Let’s get to work. The pumpkin roasting process takes a few hours of prepping, baking and pureeing—so if I’m doing a large batch, I set up an assembly line to move things along efficiently. Of course if you’re just doing one pumpkin it’s all even easier. Either way, it’s great fun to knock off the pumpkin stem with a hammer, split it with one good whack of a cleaver and scoop out slimy pumpkin goop and seeds with your hands. Your reward is a deeply flavorful and marvelously textured product that beats anything in a supermarket can.
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Remove the pumpkin stem by giving it a good whack with a hammer.
3. Cut the pumpkin in half—top to bottom—using a sharp cleaver or chefs knife.
NOTE:
Never use a dull or thin knife or you may cut yourself or break the knife.
4. Pull the sides of the pumpkin apart.
5. Scoop out the stringy pumpkin goop and seeds with a large spoon or your clean hands. Save the seeds for roasting.
6. Place the pumpkin halves—cavity side down—on a baking sheet.
7. Bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes.
8. Remove the pumpkins from the oven and turn them over—cavity side up. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake an additional 15–30 minutes, or until a fork goes through the flesh easily.
9. Remove the pumpkin halves from the oven and let them cool for one hour. Peel the outer skin away with your fingers. (The peel comes off easily once cooked.)
10. Puree the pumpkin using a food mill, food processor, blender or immersion blender. Add a few tablespoons of water to the pumpkin get the process going.
11. Store the pumpkin puree in the refrigerator for several days or freeze it in airtight zip-top bags. Be sure to lay the freezer bags on a cookie sheet when freezing so that they will remain flat and easy to handle. Otherwise you’ll end up struggling to pry bags off of your freezer shelf.
Print out our illustrated step-by-step How To Roast Pumpkins and recipe for Pumpkin Pancakes for easy reference.