Mama Rita Ferro’s kitchen is a great place to be. It’s always filled with amazing Italian food, family, friends, and her joyful spirit that guarantees lots of good times. Recently, I spent the afternoon there making cioppino with her and son Guido for their upcoming Beyond Wonderful International Home Chef feature.

Italian fishermen living in San Francisco made cioppino as a way of using leftover fish from the sales of their daily catches. Gathering around a community pot, they tossed the fish into a tomato-based sauce and cooked it long enough to release its juices and flavors. Mama Rita has spent years perfecting her sauce, and always makes it a day ahead so that the flavors have time to meld and ripen in anticipation of the fresh fish.

She sent Guido and me off to the Thien Loi Hoa supermarket in Oakland where they sell a variety of live and fresh fish—perfect for our cioppino. Serving a sizable Asian community, this market is filled with large tanks of swimming fish and crabs, aerated trays of clams, mussels and snails, and large displays of whole fish. Guido surveyed everything and couldn’t decide which “fat fish” he wanted—halibut or red snapper. I got distracted by a tray of six-inch conches in their shells.

“Hey, Barbara let’s get the snapper—that color is spectacular.” Our fish monger cleaned and filleted the fish, then also packed up the head and tail for us to use in stock.

Next, live Dungeness crabs. Our monger took us to the tank and picked two beauties, then wrapped them in butcher paper. They didn’t move much. Guido asked me if I’d ever cooked live crabs. “You know they scream,” he said with a grin, “Eeee! Eeee!” Undeterred by his pranks, I joined Guido in finishing off the shopping list: clams, mussels, shrimp and scallops.

Back at Mama Rita’s kitchen, the real fun began. I’d expected to toss our whole “catch” into the bubbling sauce at once, but Guido and Mama Rita let me in on a secret: cook the fragile snapper separately, then add it to the stew at the last minute. Otherwise the crab claws shred the snapper, creating mushy scraps rather than tender morsels. By the end of the 30-minute cooking time, everyone in the house had gathered in the kitchen, drawn by the intoxicating scent.

As always, we all had to wait patiently while Beyond Wonderful photographer, Windsor Andersen, worked her magic with the finished dish. Once she’d gotten the perfect shot, everyone filled their bowls and headed outside to the deck that overlooks a local canal. As we devoured our dinner, a boat sailed by and someone called up, “Hey, what are you cooking? It smells awesome. Are we invited for dinner?” We all waved and laughed, then got back to the serious business of sucking and picking the meat out of the shells and sopping up the sauce with an endless supply of hot garlic bread. With sauce running down my chin and all over my hands, I had to bless the Italian fishermen—and Mama Rita and Guido.

Take a look at Guido and Mama’s Rita’s Beyond Wonderful article, From Market to Meal: Classic Italian Cioppino, and get printable recipes.

A recipe for exotic Moroccan tea made it through production last week just before I came down with the terrible flu that’s going around—high fever, chills, hacking cough, laryngitis and zero energy. It was not pretty. 

Before I got sick, I had great fun perfecting my ability to pour tea high above trays of sparkling, jewel-colored tea glasses, trying to capture the perfect photo to display on the site. The aroma of the Chinese green tea and fresh mint filled the air, while we rewarded ourselves with sweet sips in between shots. At once exotic and sensuous, this tea makes a lovely alternative to ordinary green tea. 

While I languished in the land of the living dead, I envisioned Moroccans ceremoniously pouring tea for their families and guest from long-spouted silver and brass tea pots decorated with classic Moorish designs. When I awoke from a nap, my husband Perry surprised me with a tray of raisin toasts and his own fresh batch of the fragrant tea. “How hard could it be?” he asked. “Just take a little tea, a couple of sprigs of mint from the garden, and add sugar.” It was very good—sure proof that this tea is simple to make. And to cheer me up even more, Perry served it in a beautiful Moroccan tea glass that he found among our photo shoot props.

Moroccans joined the tea drinking world in the 18^th century and are now one of the top importers of green tea in the world. Queen Elizabeth I gifted the king of Morocco with a spectacular selection of English porcelain teapots, cups and accessories to promote trade and the consumption of afternoon tea. While the Moroccans embraced the tea, they created their own teapots, intricately decorated glasses and accessories that best reflected their rich Moorish heritage. Personally, I prefer the exotic glasses over fussy, fragile English cups that make one fearful while drinking tea rather than enhancing the beauty of the moment.  

For me, tea trays were the bright spots during my few days with the flu. Made with love, they supplied warmth and beauty to comfort an aching body and hasten my recovery. In fact, I enjoyed them so much that I might continue my daily Moroccan ritual even when I’m feeling just fine! Get a printable recipe of my Moroccan Tea.

Written January 28, 2008

Sunshine is a state of mind when it’s been raining for days. Despite the constant drizzle, I decided it was time for a break from the office and headed to downtown Sausalito for a walk along the bay. Across the water, San Francisco emerged from the gray mist like a mystical city and I felt at peace in this beautiful place.

As the water sloshed up against the rocks, I spotted a large puddle and couldn’t resist jumping right in. What fun! Who says you have to be three to play in the rain? Behind me, someone yelled “Wahoo — go for it!” 

And just like a kid who’s been playing outside, I came home hungry, craving my favorite grilled cheese sandwich. Mine’s made with marinated artichokes, gouda cheese, and thousand island dressing. I flat-out love the complex flavors of this simple sandwich — and it’s so easy to make. 

Grilled Artichoke-Gouda Sandwich

1 recipe Thousand Island Dressing (Homemade provides superb flavor but you can substitute bottled dressing in a pinch)

2 slices country-style bread

2 ounces gouda cheese, grated or thinly sliced

3-4 marinated artichoke heart halves, drained

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

Directions

1. Spread the Thousand Island dressing on the inside of both pieces of bread.
2. Place half the cheese on the inside of one piece of bread.
3. Fan the artichokes and place them evenly on top of the cheese.
4. Top with the remaining cheese and cover with the second slice of bread. Press the sandwich together with a firm hand.
5. Place the butter and olive oil in a grill pan or skillet set over medium-high heat. When the fat begins to sizzle, add the sandwich and grill until the bread turns golden brown. Flip and grill the other side until the cheese melts and the sandwich is heated through.
6. Serve immediately.

One of the best gifts that a city cook can receive is a simple bag of just-picked, tree-ripened fruit from a friend’s garden. Judy Mac kept me supplied with gorgeous, deep red-orange persimmons from her Sonoma home during the holidays. Late last week, she banished my winter blues with a full sack of brilliant, orange-yellow Meyer lemons—sunshine in a bag.

These fragrant, juicy fruits are a cross between an orange and a lemon and are rounder than most commercial lemons. They were brought to the United States from China in the early twentieth century by botanical explorer Frank N. Meyer. Today they are a favorite with home gardeners and sold in upscale markets December through May. 

As I admired the lemons my mind danced with all the possibilities—mousse, ice cream or cookie bars—hmmm… I decided on a silky Meyer lemon curd tart that oozes with sweet citrus flavor. The perfect ending to my Sunday dinner. 

This classic treat is simply custard thickened with eggs, cooked on the stovetop, cooled and spooned into a pre-baked tart crust. It’s a great make-ahead dessert that requires overnight chilling. Remove it from the refrigerator just before serving and decorate with a thin slice of the Meyer lemon in the center. Simple. Elegant. Amazing!

Meyer Lemon Tart

1          recipe              Meyer Lemon Tart Crust

1 ½      cups                sugar

1          medium           Meyer lemon, zested

½         cup                   butter, room temperature         

4                                   eggs, room temperature

1/2       cup                   freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice

1/8       teaspoon          salt

1            slice                 Meyer lemon for decoration 

Directions

Before getting started, set a strainer over a heat-proof bowl close at hand.

1. Place the sugar in your food processor.

2. Add the Meyer lemon zest and process until well combined.

3. Add the butter and process to blend.

4. With the processor running, add the eggs one at a time, followed by the Meyer lemon juice and the salt.

5. Pour the mixture into a small saucepan and cook very slowly over low heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened (about 10 minutes). Do not allow the custard to boil. To check the consistency, lift your stirring spoon from the mixture and swipe a finger across its back; if your finger leaves a clear path on the spoon, the curd is ready to come off the heat.

6. Immediately remove from the heat and pour the curd through a strainer into a medium bowl.

7. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

8. Spoon the curd into the pre-baked and cooled tart crust and cover with plastic wrap.

9. Refrigerate 8 hours or overnight, until well chilled.

10. Remove the tart from the refrigerator just before serving. Place a decorative slice of Meyer lemon in the center if you wish.