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Archive for December, 2007

Adventures in Produce

Sunday, December 23rd, 2007

Have you ever been excited by Brussels sprouts? Then you haven’t hung out with produce expert, Dan Avakian at his open-air market in the East Bay across from San Francisco. My photographer and I were just there for our monthly photo shoot for Dan’s Beyond Wonderful column.

Dan stocks a wide selection of produce that he regularly picks up from local farms. I’m spoiled with fruits and vegetables picked at their peak when flavor and nutrition is best. This month, it’s all about winter fruits and vegetables—dates, chestnuts, blood oranges, tangerines, persimmons, root vegetables and Brussels sprouts.

Locals, restaurateurs and chefs regularly shop here and are always greeted by this imposing man with a friendly, “Hi, how ya doing?” All are comfortable asking him questions, which he answers easily. I was happy to run into Guido Ferro, our International Home Chef, Italy, who lives close by and was doing his weekend shopping.

I’m roasting everything theses days and wanted to try Brussels sprouts, but was quickly set straight by my two friends. Dan armed himself with large stalk of fresh Brussels sprouts, swung high and yelled, “Aaargh! Don’t roast them.” Guido agreed. Both insisted that I blanch them in hot, salted water for a minute or two, then put them in a very hot skillet, toss them with olive oil, salt, pepper and just a smidge of balsamic vinegar—not too much. They said I could add a little water if things get too dry. Dan likes them halved and blackened, while Guido cooks them whole until crisp.

I bought the Brussels sprouts, along with a basket full of roasting-friendly root vegetables like purple potatoes, red and gold beets, yams, sweet potatoes, parsnips, carrots, fennel, onions and lots of garlic. These are a cinch to prepare and fill the house with an incredibly delicious aroma. They are great with roasted meats, eaten by themselves or pureed into wonderful hot winter soups. Enjoy!

Barbara’s Lazy Day Roasted Root Veggies

Preheat your oven to 450-degrees.

  1. Peel the vegetables of your choice and cut them into bite-sized pieces.
  2. Sprinkle with olive oil salt, and pepper. Toss to coat evenly.
  3. Arrange the vegetables on a baking sheet in a single layer, so that they don’t touch. Add a few sprigs of fresh rosemary or a generous sprinkling of the dried herb.
  4. Roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Stir and continue roasting for 10 minutes more, or until tender.

In Line with Rachel Ray: Just in Time Book Signing

Tuesday, December 18th, 2007

Just before noon on Sunday, Rachel Ray came to the Book Passage, my favorite local bookstore, to sign copies of Just in Timeher latest number one cookbook on the New York Times Advice Best-Seller List.

I joined hundreds of eager fans in line to glimpse the star. Fortunately, Book Passage has mastered large events like this, dividing the crowd into manageable sections with assigned signing times, so the wait doesn’t get too long. Nonetheless, groans were heard everywhere when the store staff announced that Rachel Ray was running late. For me, that meant more time to chat with the crowd about just what makes Ray such a well-loved culinary celebrity.

Many—myself included—are charmed by Ray’s sunny, down-to-earth style that skips pretension in favor of fun, simple recipes that anyone can master. One blushing boy of about sixteen also let on that Rachel Ray’s appeal extends way beyond the kitchen—and several other men in the crowd were quick to agree. A happy couple told the story of how their romance began over Rachel Ray’s Christmas Eve Pasta recipe. All around, the air was filled with the pleasant buzz of people brought together by a common enthusiasm for cooking.

More news drifts down the line—Rachel won’t be speaking, just signing books. My heart began to sink. This is a huge mistake that celebrity chefs sometimes make at these events. When fans take the time to show their support by attending a signing, they ought to be rewarded with a memorable experience. But sometimes instead we go home, book in hand, wondering “is that all there is?”

Rachel Ray missed a huge opportunity to really connect with her fans. A simple welcome—“hi, guys!”—would have thrilled the crowd. Instead, we got a lady running late for the stage and spending 5–10 impersonal seconds scribbling in each book.

I’ve attended a lot of book events over the years. My favorite celebrity chef was Alton Brown. He spoke with the group, took questions and signed a truckload of books. I was at the back of the line but he was gracious, engaging and funny. Those few seconds confirmed all of my positive opinions about this talented man.

Paula Dean’s event several weeks ago featured pre-signed books with an hour-long interview conducted by local radio personality, Gene Burns. She brought her husband, Michael and the three of them were hilarious. We went home feeling we’d gotten something memorable from Paula that couldn’t necessarily be found between the pages of her books.

My least favorite signing was Ina Garten’s earlier this year. While I love her show, books and recipes, the signing had so many restrictions that one wondered why they bothered to come. First, she would not speak to the crowd. Next, no cameras were allowed at the event, and she would only sign the book of the night. I understand the need to move people through quickly and cordially, but cookbook authors are professional communicators who’ve made careers out of sharing their knowledge and insights. An event like Ina Garten’s just feels a little stingy.

I certainly still count myself among Rachel Ray’s fans; her books and shows are of interest to me, and I admire her business acumen. But her signing missed the mark. Welcomed by a wonderful store and greeted by an adoring crowd, she should have given more in return.

Out in the parking lot, a couple that I remembered from Garten’s signing grumbled about another disconnected, impersonal event. “Why come? We could stay home and get everything from the Internet,” they complained. But like me, they’re not ready to give up altogether. Even the sunniest celeb can have an off day, and a beloved store like Book Passage is certainly worth a visit any day, signing or no. I left my acquaintances in the crowd with a cheerful “see you next time,”—and I meant it.

Dungeness crab sign at Fisherman’s Wharf.

Barbara Adams holding a Dungeness crab at Fisherman’s Wharf.

Buying Dungeness Crab at Fisherman’s Wharf

Wednesday, December 12th, 2007

 

Saturday was a spectacular, clear San Francisco day so I headed across the Golden Gate Bridge to Fisherman’s Wharf for fresh local Dungeness crab and sourdough bread for my evening crab fest.

First stop, Fishermen’s Grotto No 9, a restaurant and outdoor seafood stand that’s been there for decades. I thought the wharf would be busy with tourists and locals buying crab and enjoying steaming cups of homemade clam chowder on this cold winter morning. Instead, it looked deserted with the exception of a few Japanese tourists.

The fish monger who’s prepared my crab for years was still there. His assistant helped me select a batch of crabs. As he tore them apart, rinsed and cracked the shells, he noted that tourism is off at the wharf and many locals are staying home. “Things are real slow.” One senses a deep public fear of eating seafood from areas affected by the Costco Besan oil spill, despite assurances of safety from scientists.

Perhaps shoppers want to see how those of us who indulge first will fare (your basic sacrificial lambs!). Or they’re more comfortable buying seafood from their local markets that stock crabs caught farther up the coast or out of state. My local Sausalito Mollie Stone’s market ordered 500 pounds of crab for the weekend from Eureka north of San Francisco, and sold 450 pounds by Sunday morning.

It’s not hard to see why this is happening. Local media coverage was intense following the disaster, and lots of grim speculation filled the airwaves when real facts were unavailable. Now we’re being inundated with the legal issues and pending lawsuits that compensate fishermen for lost income—sometime in the future. Let’s remember that these fishermen are suffering financially now, and need our support as they deliver a superior, safe product. In addition to supporting the fleet, shopping at the wharf gives you the pleasure of seeing your food prepared straight off the boat. Supermarkets cannot compete with this freshness.

With my crabs cracked and wrapped, I headed down the street to the Boudin bakery for just-out-of-the-oven sourdough bread—the perfect complement to Dungeness crab. Unlike the cold wharf, Boudin’s was warm, busy and filled with the intoxicating scent of baking bread.

In business since 1849, the historic Boudin invites shoppers to watch bakers work through large glass windows, or take a guided tour of the facility. I browsed racks filled with classic loaves, plus whimsical ones shaped like alligators, lobsters and seasonal snowmen. In the end, I couldn’t resist a giant, crab-shaped creation.

My crab fest was a huge success. It was definitely a crack, peel, dip, slurp, moan and indulge meal. Guests focused on eating and enjoying, not formalities. I covered the table with orange plastic and put out sturdy paper plates, lots of napkins and large bowls for discarded shells. A big ice-filled bowl stacked high with crab took center stage, surrounded by multiple bowls of hot, melted plain and garlic butter.

The crab-shaped sourdough bread was also hit. Guests loved breaking off the bread claws and dipping them in the garlic butter. A green Romaine lettuce salad with ripe avocados and blue cheese added depth, and chilled white wine washed it all down.

Perfection!

Crab Louis Salad recipe with Thousand Island Dressing.

Crab Louis Salad

While some credit the Bay Area with inventing Crab Louis, others swear the classic salad hails from Oregon. Either way,
it's hard to beat this delectable
medley of sweet crab, tangy
dressing, and crisp greens.
My version departs from the
standard with the addition of
creamy avocados.
Recipe.

Thousand Island Dressing recipe.

Thousand Island Dressing

I keep a batch of this on hand
for Crab Louis and everyday
green salads. Quick, easy,
and way better than bottled.
Recipe.

Indulging in San Francisco Dungeness Crab

Friday, December 7th, 2007

Cheers to the San Francisco fishermen who braved bad weather and high waves to deliver fresh Dungeness crabs to our Bay Area markets this week.

Things looked bleak earlier last month when the Costco Besan cargo ship hit the Bay Bridge and dumped 58,000 gallons of oil into the Bay. Fishermen remained dockside as crab season went on hold. That all changed last Thursday when scientists reported that the Dungeness crab, rock crab, herring, surf perch and mussels (with the exception of those at Rodeo Beach in Marin County and the Berkeley pier) were safe to eat. Officials lifted the ban.

Early Saturday morning fishermen loaded the decks of their boats with hundreds of crab traps and headed out the Golden Gate. Joining others from Half Moon Bay and Bodega Bay they set their traps and delivered the season’s first catch on Sunday.

News of their departure spread fast so I bundled up and braved the cold bay winds to wander the piers and watch the last of the boats head out. Word was that we’d have crab in the markets Monday afternoon.

My only problem was which crab dish to prepare first. Spicy crab cakes sounded good—or maybe a rich crab sandwich with baby shrimp and melted Gruyere cheese. I had a friend coming for lunch so opted for a crisp Crab Louis salad with creamy slices of avocado, hard-cooked eggs and homemade Thousand Island dressing. It was divine.

What next? Well, the most sinfully decadent way to eat Dungeness crab is boiled, cracked, peeled and dipped in melted butter—lots of butter. Simple—pure pleasure.

Friends are coming to my house this Saturday for our first crab fest of the year. I’ll get the Dungeness crabs at Fishermen’s Wharf in the morning, then walk down the street to the bakery for just-out-of-the oven sourdough bread. The only other things needed are a crisp Romaine salad and chilled white wine. It’s a meal fit for the gods—and your best buddies.

The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook

Tuesday, December 4th, 2007

Long Island’s summer foodie crowd flocks to the Barefoot Contessa for the kinds of upscale eats that are required for the endless rounds of parties. Garten’s creations satisfy her customers, and this cookbook makes it easy to understand why. Savory dishes such as turkey meatloaf and lobster potpie are sure to be crowd pleasers. Potato-fennel gratin improves simpler spud creations; one can go over the top with buttery, creamy Parmesan smashed potatoes. Croissant bred pudding provides a rich ending to a grand dinner. For those entertaining overnight guest, Garten offers a handful of trendy breakfast scones. A chapter on finger foods provides the basis for grazing of for summer lawn cocktail parties. Garten’s use of extra-large eggs as her standard measure may cause some cooks to encounter difficulties in reproducing some recipes.

Cookie Season Sparkles at Beyond Wonderful

Saturday, December 1st, 2007

SAN FRANCISCO, CA –Sweet, spectacular cookies abound in the Beyond Wonderful holiday kitchen. To celebrate the year’s biggest baking month, online host and guide Barbara Adams has teamed with resident baking expert Catherine Christiansen, serving up a bonanza of bite-sized holiday gems.

Baking traditionalists will find foolproof formulas for sugar cookies, gingerbread people and other holiday staples. Those looking for a change will appreciate new classics like chocolate peppermint bars or candy-packed “monster” cookies.

In addition to clear, easy-to-follow recipes, Beyond Wonderful also highlights the social pleasures of the cookie baking season. Find tips for making cookies with kids (stress-free!), and suggestions for hosting the ultimate grown-up baking party, complete with wine and jazz. Visitors to the site will also enjoy holiday-perfect recipes for main dishes, sides and festive beverages.

Throughout the holidays and all year round, Beyond Wonderful offers hundreds of classic and seasonal dishes for everyday and special occasions – all meticulously kitchen-tested. The site also offers an ever-growing library of engaging feature stories and monthly columns on wine, produce, baking and cheese from a panel of culinary pros.  

About Barbara Adams’ Beyond Wonderful

The brainchild of cooking teacher and online guide Barbara Adams, Beyond Wonderful is a vibrant online culinary destination for both novice and accomplished home cooks. The site launched in September 2004 from the San Francisco Bay Area, and today serves culinary enthusiasts across the country. Beyond Wonderful offers hundreds of classic and seasonal recipes for everyday and special occasions, all meticulously kitchen-tested and accompanied by tempting photographs. The site also offers an ever-growing library of premium editorial content. For more information, contact pr@beyondwonderful.com.

About Catherine Christiansen

A Colorado-based chef and food writer, Catherine is a columnist and restaurant reviewer for the Boulder Daily Camera. She also writes about food, wine and restaurants for other local and national publications including Delicious Living and 5280, Denver’s leading lifestyle magazine. Catherine develops recipes for Horizon Organic, the nation’s number one organic dairy company, and works with a number of community-supported farms and local farmer’s markets in developing recipes for organic produce.